I could not use a PVC pipe, because acetone destroys PVC. I found a method that worked, my next challenge was to find a container large enough to submerge the stock. The container I used wasn't large enough to soak the whole piece at once, so I soaked either end in it for 24 hours. I tested acetone with two of my P14 upper handguards and the M48 handguard with an acetone soak. Most storage bins are made of PP, so I already had a few laying around. A number 5 in the middle is polypropylene (PP), while number 2 is high density polyethylene (HDPE) The little recycling symbol on most plastics will tell you what kind of plastic it is. Apparently, it is used to make meth too.ĭoing some research, I learned that polypropylene (PP) and high density polyethylene (HDPE) are acetone safe. Walmart will not sell more than 1 gallon of acetone at a time. But working with acetone has some challenges.Īcetone vapor is not something you want to be breathing for any significant length of time. What is more important is that the repaired section matches exactly the shape and contour of the surrounding wood.Acetone dissolves cosmoline, and dissolves it quickly. Exact color match is not critical as this is wood. Unless I were refinshing both forestock and buttstock, I would refinish just the repaired section or it won't look right. Razor off hardened Acraglas, sand, and refinish, either the section or the whole piece. Wipe off excess so as not to interfere with forestock fit.ĭon't be concerned with a litlle Acraglas oozing out. Fill with more Acraglas to completely cover the metal.
Force Acraglas into the relieved section(s). I also like to rough up the metal with the Dremel with grinding stone attachment to give the Acraglas more to grip. To prevent this, you must go to the interior surface of the crack, Dremel out a crosswise channels about 1/2 inch long in 2 or 3 locationsalong the crack, deep enough to fully accept a piece of metal - piece of common nail of 1/8" or 5/32" is strong emough. That is why so many guns with wood repairs have cracks coming through the surface of the finish. Acraglas will fill the crack temporarily, but over time, the wood will still flex and crack through the finish. I can help you as I have paid the learning costs.
Any repair specialists out there? :?: Thanks, Art Any suggestions? Any help is much appreciated. I have this basic plan of repair, as I don`t believe that I can find an original replacement wood set. I also have some oil to rejuvinate wood, but know that epoxy will not stick to wood with oil on it or in it. I have masking tape to put on each side of the crack, before I try to fill it with epoxy. I have some acraglass, and was told by Brownells that acrylic paint tint could be used to color acraglass, so I got some raw umber and red oxide to mix togeather to form a redish brown tint for the epoxy. The finish around the outside of the crack is original and almost perfect. There is maybe a 1/64" gap at the end of the crack, and I think it was caused simply by the wood drying out. The forearm wood is thick, and cannot be squeezed back togeather.
#Acraglas stock crack repair cracked#
The forearm is cracked in the front end about 3" long. My wife bought me an apparently rare model 91 Winchester 12ga.
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